Experience France By Bike

Bicycling in France: It’s All About the Experience

Posted on March 14, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

When you’re planning a bicycling trip to France or anywhere else, how do you decide how many miles/kilometers to do each day? I’ve gotten a lot of e-mails regarding this question lately, so I know many of you must be busy planning trips. The answer isn’t simple and may vary from trip to trip, the kind of cyclist you are, the kind of bike you are using, whether you are traveling with kids, carrying your own panniers or interested in enjoying the local attractions. The decision is challenging because the choices you make will have a major impact on how much you enjoy your trip, and if you want to come back again!

Take time to enjoy the fun things along the road

In order to respond to the mileage question, I’ll explain my thoughts on traveling by bike. For me, bicycling in France isn’t about distance covered, but rather is about having a unique travel experience. Experience France by Bike is dedicated to exactly just that: exploring and experiencing France the slow way.

Take time to meet new friends

The bike is really just a means to an end, a way to tour France very differently than normal tourists for whom cities and countries often blur together by the end of a trip. A bicycling vacation can be an escape from everything that is fast and frenzied about day to day life, but only if you allow time to relax, explore and enjoy the unique opportunities of traveling by bike.

Take time to marvel at the biggest haystack in France

With an understanding of my emphasis on the quality of the experience, rather than the quantity, I think somewhere between 35 and 50 km is a good daily distance to travel. This allows enough leeway during the day to stop and spend time exploring things you discover along the way, time to have a second cup of coffee, time to buy supplies for and have the perfect picnic lunch, and time to visit with other bicyclists you meet along the way.

Take the time to smell the ripening grapes

Obviously there will be days when you go farther, either intentionally or because you get lost. My longest day was just under 100 km and the only thing I remember about that day was how relieved I was to finally make it to my destination that night. That was it, nothing else. We had no time to stop to see anything along the way. A day of missed opportunities, and missed experiences. I promised myself to not let that happen again.

Take time to have a picnic

Most of my itineraries are from 40-50 km/day with several days from 50-70 km. If I have a long day, I always try to plan an easier day the next day. I find that this works well, allows enough time to do all the things I want during the day while still enabling me to get to my B&B in time to enjoy the sunset and an apertif.

Take time to go to market day

As is the case with any adventure form of travel, there will always be things to slow you down along the way: getting lost, bad weather, bad directions, bad bike paths, tire troubles, getting sick, getting hurt, etc. Any of these can add unplanned delays to a day, hopefully not an already long one. If I had a choice of bicycling more of an itinerary (covering more distance) versus having the opportunity to see more along a smaller part of the route, I would always opt for seeing more along a smaller part of the route. This is where you will encounter people and places that will change your life.

Take time to discover history

Posted in Planning a bicycling trip to France, Why Bike France | Tagged adventure, bicycling in France, bicycling trip, bike adventure, bike in France, biking in France, Cycling in France, France, picnic lunch | 2 Comments

New EuroVelo Website Launched

Posted on March 6, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

Bicycling in Europe just keeps getting better and better! The European Cyclists’ Federation has announced the debut of the new EuroVelo website, a long-awaited resource for the long distance European cycling network.

As promised, the new website will be a great source of information for trip planning on the 14 EuroVelo routes. Each of the EuroVelo routes will have its own page with information ranging from route maps showing the status of stages along the route, lodging and support services and things to see along the way. There will also be links to more detailed information from each country along the route. The website is available in German, French, Dutch and English.

The EuroVelo Network

Of the 14 EuroVelo routes, six of them go through France: EuroVelo 1, La Velodyssee, EuroVelo 3, the Pilgrim’s Route, EuroVelo 4, the Central Europe Route, EuroVelo 6, the Atlantic to the Black Sea Route, EuroVelo 8, the Mediterranean Route and EuroVelo 15, the Rhine Route. The network currently has over 45,000 km of cycle routes, with over 70,000 planned when the network is completed.

The new EuroVelo website will provide cyclists with the most up to date information on which parts of individual routes are complete. Maps for each EuroVelo route illustrate the parts of the route that are realized, not realized or planned. This information, together with country-specific route websites will provide better information than has been available in the past, and now all the information will be easily accessible from one main site. Kudos to the European Cyclists’ Federation for developing such a terrific resource for cyclists interested in the EuroVelo network. Stay tuned for updates on website enhancements in the future.

If you are interested in planning a trip along the French portion of EuroVelo 15, there’s also more news! The Rhine Cycle Route website is now up and running and it is a wealth of information on this route that goes from Lake Constance in Switzerland, through the Alsace region of France, along the Romantic Rhine in Germany, ultimately to the Netherlands and the North Sea.

EuroVelo 15, The Rhine Route

If you are not already planning a bicycling trip for 2013, both of these resources may get you thinking about planning a trip for this year, or next. But then the number of great itineraries keeps growing, you may need 2 years just to decide which route to take. In the meantime, I will keep looking for the best resources to help you make a choice!

Posted in Bicycling in France, Eurovelo in France, Eurovelo, Veloroute and Voie Verte | Tagged bicycling in France, bicycling trip, bike in France, biking in France, Central Europe Route, cycling, Cycling in France, cyclists, Europe, European Cyclists Federation, EuroVelo, France, Germany, La, La Velodyssee, Mediterranean Route, Netherlands, Pilgrim Route, Rhine Cycle Route, Rhine Route, Veloroutes | 1 Comment

My Favorite Loire River Bicycling Itineraries, Part II

Posted on February 25, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

I hope that the first installment of this two part series has you seriously considering taking a trip on that part of the Loire this year. You may want to wait until you read this post. I’m not sure which of the two itineraries is my favorite. I love them both! In a perfect world, we all could just take a month off and do them both. I meet a lot of young European families who do just that and more, many opting to travel a longer part of the EuroVelo 6 route beyond France.

Detours de Loire in Tours

The first of my suggested itineraries ended in Tours, this one will start in Tours. Tours is the perfect place to start or end a bicycling vacation: there are plenty of trains there from all parts of France and there are very good bike rental options, including my favorite, Detours de Loire. Detours de Loire offers Trek bikes as an upgraded option, well worth it for riding along the Loire, and has a drop-off service in major towns along the Loire. For the purposes of this itinerary, you could pick your bike up in Tours, just a block from the train station, and drop the bike off in Blois at the end of the trip. If you want to start and end your trip in Tours, they will store your extra bags until your return.

The streets of old Tours

From Tours, this itinerary goes to Amboise, then on to Chenonceaux, Chaumont, the Pays des Chateaux, Chambord, St. Dye, and ending in the beautiful town of Blois. If you are traveling with children, I recommend beginning the trip in Amboise and spending an extra night or two in the “Pays des Chateaux”, with its 13 wonderful, flat, safe bike itineraries. Either way, you are in for some of the best sights along the Loire from the castle at Amboise to the home of Leonardo Da Vinci to the castle of Chenonceau to the gardens of Cheverny to magical Blois and the indescribable Chambord Castle. Let’s get started!

Tours to Amboise is an easy 28 km. As you leave Tours, you will be treated to a spectacular view of the cliffs of Rochecorbon, complete with troglodyte dwellings, many of which have been renovated into expensive homes. Be sure to stop and take photos of this beautiful part of the Loire.

Troglodyte caves near Rochecorbon on the bike path from Tours

The bike route follows the Loire for about 14 km, then near wine village of Montlouis-sur-Loire the bike route turns inland for the rest of the route until you are near Amboise. There are many many opportunities for wine tasting along this route, so be sure to stop and find a perfect bottle of wine for a picnic lunch.

Routes are marked in both directions

There is an alternative route to Amboise along the northern part of the Loire that goes from Rochecorbon through the heart of the vineyards to Amboise. I love this alternate route, but would not recommend it if you are traveling with kids as part of the route into Vouvray is along a busy highway. If you are interested in learning more about this route, be sure to get the brochure, Velo Loire and Terrior that details the itinerary. You can also read one of my blog posts, Biking the Loire: Vineyards and Troglodyte Caves on bicycling this route.

Cycle path through the Vouvray vineyards on the north side of the Loire

Regardless of which itinerary you take, you soon reach Amboise, one of the most popular towns along this stretch of the Loire. There is a lot to see and do in Amboise and you will always find the streets, cafes and hotels full of many tourists. Because of its popularity, Amboise can be very expensive during the busy summer months, so if you want to stay here, be sure to plan in advance.

Amboise Castle

My favorite attraction in Amboise, other than people watching is visiting Le Chateau du Clos Luce, the last residence of Leonardo DaVinci. No matter what age, this place is amazing and is full of operational replicas of DaVinci’s inventions.

The courtyard and gardens at Le Clos Luce

If you walk up to Clos Luce, be sure to spend some time looking at all of the troglodyte dwellings along the walk. As you will see, many of them have been renovated into quite upscale dwellings, many of them serving as weekend homes for wealthy Parisians.

Streets of Amboise

Depending on what castles you plan to visit, you may or may not want to spend time visiting the Amboise Castle. My advice: if you are planning to visit Chenonceaux and Chambord, or Cheverny or Blois, you may not want to spend the time or money on Amboise. As lovely as all the castles are, there is definitely a point of “castle overload” that most tourists reach, so take care to not overdo it. One place to definitely not miss when you are passing through Amboise is the famous pastry shop, La Pastisserie Bigot, located on Place du Chateau, right behind the castle. In operation since 1913, this shop is heaven for any kind of pastry or chocolate and the cafe tables in and around the place are always full.

Windows full of the famous Bigot specialties

And if you are lucky enough to be in Amboise on Sunday morning, be sure to spend some time at the Sunday market which takes place along the river. This and the Blois market are two of my favorites along the Loire, so much so that I actually plan my trip around market days.

Lunch specialties at the Amboise market

From Amboise, you have two options: continue on the Loire a Velo toward Chaumont or take one of two routes to the spectacular castle at Chenonceaux.

Follow the signs to Chenonceaux

This castle is amazing, one of my favorites along the Loire. In case you are wondering, the town is spelled Chenonceaux but the castle is spelled Chenonceau. Most people find it confusing until they understand the distinction. The town is small, but very charming. Clearly the attraction here is the castle.

Chenonceau Castle

An overnight here is a very special experience, especially if you are lucky enough to get a room at the welcoming La Rosarie, one of my “Experience France by Bike Best Places to Stay” for 2011.

Main entrance to La Rosarie

From Chenonceaux you will follow the signs back to the Loire a Velo, direction Chaumont-sur-Loire. Be prepared, there is a bit of a hill as you leave the Cher River Valley near Chisseaux, but it’s over with before you know it. The approach into Chaumont is lovely. This is a very manageable town and another great place to spend the night, with several very affordable places to stay, including a nice campground.

Bike path near Chaumont

The attraction here is again the castle, but more important, the castle’s gardens. Chaumont is home to the International Garden Festival which attractions hundreds of thousands of tourists every year from late April to mid-October. If you did not visit the gardens at Villandry, you may want to put the gardens of Chaumont on your list of things to do. Depending on if you are spending the night here, this is a perfect place to also pick up picnic supplies for lunch.

Just follow the signs

From Chaumont you will head toward the small town of Cande-sur-Beuvron. There is a beautiful park here where we always stop for a picnic. You are certain to see plenty of bicyclists at this popular stop.

Picnic lunch in Cande-sur-Beuvron

Cande-sur-Beuvron is the starting point for Chateaux a Velo itinerary #1 so you need to be very careful that you follow the right signs here, depending on where you want to go. You can head straight for Blois, in which case you follow the Loire a Velo signs or you can

Follow this sign to Blois

choose to spend a few days bicycling in the Pays des Chateaux, then head for Chambord and finish your trip in Blois. If you are heading into the Pays des Chateaux, look for the signs indicating itinerary #1.

Follow this sign into the Pays des Chateaux.

The Pays des Chateaux is a wonderful bicycling area with charming French villages, wonderful small B&B’s, vineyards for tasting, and lots of quiet country roads perfectly suited for exploring by bike. This is a perfect area for family bicycling, and offers my favorite approach to Chambord, from Bracieux through the Forest of Chambord.

The Chateaux a Velo website is full of information and maps to help plan an excursion into the Pays des Chateaux, so be sure to download a copy of the map, and take a look at which itineraries you want to explore. My favorites are itineraries 4, 5, 7 and 10.

Routes are clearly marked in the Pays des Chateaux

Regardless of whether you head for Blois or the Pays des Chateaux, be sure to read the directional signs carefully. My husband and I have helped many temporarily lost bicyclists who simply followed a sign with a bicycle, not understanding the many different routes in the area. I always suggest that you have a copy of the Chateaux a Velo map to refer to if you need it.

Tours at the Vauche Chocolate company in Bracieux are popular

Interesting sights along the bike path

The Pays des Chateaux has charming towns like Chitenay, Cheverny and Bracieux, vineyards in Cheverny and Cour Cheverny, castles at Chitenay, Troussay, Cheverny just to name a few. The area is perfect for exploring and simply enjoying the beautiful French countryside. The only rush around here is at the boulangerie in the morning and before lunch!

Auberge du Center, a perfect place to stay in Chitenay

You can visit some of the castles, or you can just enjoy viewing them from afar. This area is perfectly suited to having no agenda other than to enjoy the day: bicycling from one town to the next, exploring each village, having a second or third cup of coffee, buying supplies for a picnic lunch, searching for the perfect bottle of wine, celebrating your time in France.

This area is perfect for family bicycling

My favorite approach to Chambord is from Bracieux through the forest. Bicycling through the forest is a great prelude to seeing Chambord for the first time.

Bicycling through the Chambord forest

As you progress through the forest, you have time to reflect on the history, imagining knights and the king’s horsemen riding on the exact same pathways. Finally there is a clearing up ahead, and it is then that you get a glimpse of Chambord for the first time.

First view of Chambord

As you plan your trip, you’ll no doubt read many comments about Chambord, good and bad. Don’t let these opinions prevent you from enjoying the historical significance of this incredible castle. Better yet, read about the history of Europe at the time of Chambord’s construction to understand the political importance of Chambord to Francois I. With this context, you will be able to understand and appreciate your visit to Chambord, whether you actually tour the castle or not.

Back view of Chambord from dinner at Le Grand Saint-Michel

By mid-afternoon most of the large tour groups have left the castle and are preparing to leave for the day. Use this early part of the day to ride the perimeter of the estate and to have a picnic lunch overlooking the castle. If you are able to get a reservation, I would highly recommend spending the night at Le Grand Saint Michel directly opposite the castle. Staying here was one of the highlights of my last trip to the Loire. If you do spend the night, do not sleep in! Get up early and enjoy having the castle to yourself before any of the crowds appear.

I like leaving Blois for the last stop on this itinerary, as it is one of the most underrated and most beautiful towns along the Loire. Most tourists choose to visit and/or stay at the neighboring town of Amboise. Sad for them. Good news for me (and you).

Approaching Blois from the bike path

Blois is the perfect ending to a trip that has included sights like Chenonceau Castle, the gardens at Chaumont, the castles of the Pays des Chateaux and of course, Chambord.

Streets of Blois

Its hilly streets surrounding the Blois castle are a perfect fairy tale ending to a memorable bike ride. And if you are lucky enough to be there on market day, you are really in for a treat.

Navigating the streets on market day

From Blois, you can easily catch a train back to Paris, or you can make a connection at St. Pierre des Corps and return directly to Charles DeGaulle Airport.

I hope that these two posts have given you some ideas on planning your summer trip to the Loire. Please send me a note and let me know about your plans, and don’t forget to let me know how you enjoyed your trip. The Loire a Velo is a very special place. Relax and deviate off the path. Talk to other cyclists and exjoy the pleasures of experiencing France by bike!

Posted in Bicycling in France, Bicycling the Loire River Valley, Cycling Through French Vineyards, Planning a bicycling trip to France | Tagged Amboise, Amboise Castle, bicycling in France, bicycling trip, Chambord Castle, Chateaux a Velo, Chenonceau, Chenonceau Castle, Chenonceaux, Cher River Valley, Clos Luce, cyclists, Detours de Loire, EuroVelo, France, La, La Pastisserie Bigot, La Rosarie, Le Chateau, Leonardo Da Vinci, Loire, Loire a Velo, Loire River, Loire Vineyards, picnic lunch, troglodyte, vineyards, wine | 2 Comments

My Favorite Loire River Bicycling Itineraries–Part I

Posted on February 12, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

My next two posts are dedicated to those of you who have written asking for itinerary suggestions for exploring the Loire by bike. As many of you know, the Loire is one of my favorite itineraries in Europe. The route has everything: castles, abbeys, grand cathedrals, troglodyte dwellings, vineyards, fantastic markets, unbelievable food, and great, safe bicycling paths. What more could you ask for? But to narrow my recommendations down to one or two suggestions? That’s a tall order. But I love a challenge, especially one having to do with bicycling, so join me as I explore two of my favorite 7 day itineraries in the Loire Valley.

The best of the Loire

Each itinerary features some of the best scenery and attractions of the Loire. A week on either itinerary will leave you sad to leave, and anxious to return. That’s just the way it is with the Loire. I’m including some of my favorite photos to give you a taste of what you will see along the way. Whether you choose to follow one of my suggestions, or combine them into your own itinerary, you cannot go wrong with choosing the Loire for a bicycling vacation!

Itinerary 1-Saumur to Tours

Saumur is a perfect place to start a bicycling trip along the Loire. You can catch a TGV right from Charles DeGaulle and 2 1/2 hours later, be in Saumur. You quickly realize that you have made a good choice when you see signs at the train station, pointing the way to the Loire bike path.

Signs at the train station direct you to Loire a Velo

Saumur is a charming French town, full of many attractions and small villages to explore by bike. If you are starting your vacation in Saumur, you may want to spend one or two nights here to give your body a chance to adjust. Pick up a bicycling map and a map of local vineyards from the huge Saumur Office of Tourism at 8a dock Carnot, across the street from the Loire.

Wineries to visit, taste and relax

You can easily fill a day leisurely exploring the adjoining towns of St-Hilaire and St-Florent, visiting the equestrian school and tasting wine at some of the local vineyards. Another favorite trip is visiting the Loire dolmen located between Saumur and St-Florent. The most famous of these megaliths is Le Grand Dolmen, the largest in France and thought to be about 5,000 years old.

Accommodations around Saumur are varied and very reasonable in price. One of my favorite places to stay is Le Petit Hureau, located about 4 km outside of Saumur on the bike path to Montsoreau. Chateau Hureau is a prominent Saumur vineyard, so be sure to sample the local vintage.

Le Petit Hureau in Saumur

As you bicycle from Saumur toward Montsoreau, you’ll be treated to vineyards and troglodyte dwellings made out of the Loire tufa stone, with the bike path actually passing under carved out stone as you approach the small village of Turquant.

You’ve never seen a bike path like this!

Many of the troglodyte dwellings have been renovated and turned into artist’s studios. The area has become quite a tourist attraction and is very busy on the weekend. When you are passing through, be sure to stop and have a cup of coffee at the Bistroglo cafe!

Shops in renovated troglodyte dwellings in Turquant

It is a 6 km deviation off the bike route to Fontevraud Abbey, but this is a deviation you really must take, even through there are a few hills. If you go to Fontvraud, be sure to stock up on snacks and water before the deviation, as there is not much on the road until you get to the Abbey. The Royal Abbey at Fontevraud is one of the most special places along the Loire. Started in the 12th century but not completed till the 18th, it is the largest monastic building in the Western Hemisphere. Be sure to visit the Roman kitchens if you go.

The magnificent Fontevraud Abbey

The town of Fontevraud-l’Abbaye is lovely. I did not stay here, but would highly recommend it to you. There is a charming, highly rated Logis Hotel, Hostellerie La Croix Blanche right across from the Abbey that would be a perfect place to stay. Otherwise, have a snack and then make your way back the 6 km to the bike path direction Montsoreau.

Follow the signs for the bike path out of town

Montsoreau is a charming small town on the banks of the Loire. The Loire a Velo path runs right through it. The first time I rode this itinerary, we did not stay here, but I made a promise that I would the next time. If you do not stay in Fontevraud, this is a perfect town to spend the night. My favorite hotel is the Hotel Le Bussy, owned by Dominique and Thierry Roi. I don’t think that Dominique speaks a word of English, but she runs the hotel as efficiently and pleasantly. Hotel Le Bussy has the best location in town, right across the street from the Montsoreau Castle. If you can, splurge for a room overlooking the castle and the Loire. You will not be disappointed!

View of castle from Hotel Le Bussy

From Montsoreau it’s a wonderful ride to Chinon, one of my favorite towns on the Loire. Be sure to buy supplies for a picnic lunch before you leave Montsoreau. Today will be a perfect day for a picnic lunch along the Loire. The scenery along the route is nothing less than spectacular. On a sunny day, there is nothing more beautiful than the light glistening off the Loire.

Bicycling along the Loire doesn’t get any better than this!

Bicycling along the Loire doesn’t get any better unless you add bread, cheese and wine and have a picnic lunch along the Loire!

The perfect picnic lunch along the Loire

From the heavier bike traffic, you can sense that you are getting closer to Chinon, then you start to get your first view of the town and it is magical. Chinon does not disappoint. Located on the Vienne River, just before it flows in the Loire, the bike path is the perfect perspective to view the town.

View of Chinon from the bike path

The view from this side of the river is really the best way to soak in Chinon. Once you cross the bridge you lose this wider perspective, and the unique photo ops, so be sure to stop and take lots of photos before you cross the bridge.

My favorite place to stay in Chinon is the Hotel Diderot. If you are lucky enough to get a room here, you are in for a special treat. Hotel Diderot is the kind of warm and friendly place to stay that makes a long day on the bike more than worth it.

Hotel Diderot

Under the watchful eye of Francoise, Martine and Laurent, guests are treated more like family than strangers. Don’t expect a four star hotel. Stay here for the experience….and for the jams served every morning at breakfast!

The jam cupboard at Hotel Diderot

Be sure to take some time to explore this wonderful small town with a big history. Chinon castle was a favorite of King Henry II, was where the Knights Templar were imprisoned before being taken to Paris to be executed, and was where Joan of Arc persuaded Charles VII to rise up against the English, setting the stage for her famous campaign. And last but not least, visit the vineyards. Many of the best Chinon wines never make it to the US, so seize the moment and enjoy them while you are there!

Be sure to stop at the Chinon tourism office to get directions on leaving town, direction Chateau Usse and Langeais. Otherwise you may get temporarily lost! Once you get on the right road, the route out of Chinon is quiet and peaceful and dotted with small private castles.

Wonderful sights on the road to Huisme

Soon you rejoin the Loire take a slight turn to visit the beautiful Chateau d’Usse, often regarded as the inspiration for the castle of Sleeping Beauty. Approaching the castle by bike is really breathtaking.

Chateau Usse

As spectacular as it is to see, in three visits, I’ve never actually gone into the castle. I’m perfectly happy to enjoy it from afar, and you may too. Whether you go in or not, there is a perfect little cafe opposite the castle which is great for a second cappucino or expresso or even a cornetto. This is a very popular stop for bicyclists, so it’s fun to sit for a while and watch all the comings and goings.

As you once again rejoin the path along the Loire, you are treated to more gorgeous views. One of my favorites is the sight of the gabares, old-style boats that are everywhere on this part of the river. At Brehemont, you will need to decide whether you are going to take the first of two deviations to Azay-le-Rideau. If so, you will leave the Loire and follow the path to Azay. Otherwise, stay on the Loire a Velo, next destination Langeais.

Gabares near Brehemont

I love the small town of Langeais. I will warn you though, when you cross the spectacular suspension bridge, your first view of the town is a bit dismal. But keep going. When you actually head up the main street and have the castle in your view, it’s totally charming. In addition, there is a wonderful small gite there that I would definitely go out of my way to stay at any day, as well as one of the best restaurants on the Loire. L’Ange est Reveur is one of the most charming gites along the Loire, and the restaurant Au Coin des Halles is one of the best in the region.

The terrace at L’Ange est Reveur in Langeais

Under the watchful eye of Fabrice and Stephan, the three rooms in this gite are practically showrooms for their decorating store. The rooms are warm and cozy with just the right touch of sophistication. The outdoor terrace is a wonderful place to relax and stare up at the imposing castle, one of the few along the Loire with a working drawbridge.

After a great night’s sleep in Langeais, it’s time to move on to one of the most beautiful attractions on the Loire, the Chateau and Gardens of Villandry. The Chateau has recently been totally renovated and furnished, but I visit to see the gardens. I know what you may be thinking, gardens really aren’t your thing. I thought the same thing. Go to the gardens. You won’t be disappointed. The gardens at Villandry are nothing less than spectacular. A couple of hours walking the gardens seems like minutes!

The spectacular gardens at Villandry

From Villandry it is an easy ride to Tours, the capital of the Indre-et-Loire region, and one of the three larger towns along the Loire. It can be a challenge to ride into by bike. The signage can be confusing, and I’ve never arrived in the center the same way twice. But the good news is that bicycling is popular in Tours and most people will go out of their way to point you in the right direction. Tours is a perfect place to end a trip as there are lovely shops to buy souvenirs that you didn’t want to carry on the bike. There is a beautiful old town with lots of half-timbered buildings, outdoor cafes and restaurants.

Streets of the old town in Tours

There is plenty in town to keep you busy for an afternoon and evening, and the next day you can catch a TGV back to either central Paris or to CDG to catch your flight home. If you have traveled this itinerary, I trust you will have had an incredible experience, and that you will quickly start planning your next visit.

Resources for both itineraries will be included at the end of the second post.

Posted in Bicycling the Loire River Valley, Planning a bicycling trip to France, Where to Stay | Tagged Amboise, bicycling in France, bike in France, biking in France, Biking the loire, Chateaux a Velo, Cycling in France, cycling the Loire, eating in france, Hotel Diderot, Loire, Loire a Velo | 2 Comments

Tour de France Cycling Holiday at BMC Test Center

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

The 100th Tour de France will once again climb the famous Mont-Ventoux on July 14. In celebration of this special event, I’m thinking about cycling in the Luberon, sticking of course to much much more gentle terrain than the Tour! Since I haven’t spent much time cycling in this area, I spent time this week looking into possible itineraries for recreational cyclists. Good news, there are a lot of options for recreational cyclists, but great news for the racing bike crowd looking for steep ascents, hills and lots of hairpin turns! If you’re looking to test your cycling stamina and you’re looking for a place to do it, I have a suggestion for you.

Provence Cycling Paradise is a test center for BMC and Bergamont bikes, located on the grounds of Domaine de la Coquillade, one of the most exclusive resorts of Provence. I actually came upon the center while researching places to stay in Provence…one look at the website and I knew it was totally out of my price range. By chance I clicked on “Provence Cycling Paradise”, and I discovered the information on the cycling test center. According to the website, visitors range from professional riders to amateurs wanting to test their skills at navigating some of the challenging circuits in the area.

The test center rents state-of-the-art equipment from racing bikes, mountain bikes, even e-bikes to clothing and accessories. You’ll find some real high-tech race bikes here. BMC outfits a number of top racing teams and was the brand Cadel Evans rode when he won the Tour in 2011. Bike rentals are 40 Euro per day, definitely not cheap, but I doubt that anyone staying here is worried about money. If you decide to purchase a new BMC or Bergamont bike, the rental fees are credited to your purchase.

If staying at the 300-1200 Euro Relais et Chateaux La Coquillade or renting a 40 Euro/day bike are not for you, but you really want to ride the very challenging itineraries in this region, keep reading. The very best feature on the Provence Cycling Paradise website is the link to 17 of the toughest rides in Provence. What a terrific find it was to see these 17 circuits featured on this website! 17 itineraries ranging from 22 to 127 km and with ascents ranging from 265 meters to 2596 meters. This type of cycling is not for me. Not only do I hate the ascent, but I also hate the decent! But I hope that this information may be of interest to those of you who are younger, more ambitious and seeking a challenging cycling adventure in France. For the rest of you, stay tuned, I will be writing more about Provence for the rest of us soon!

Posted in Bicycling in Provence, Planning a bicycling trip to France | Tagged bicycling in France, biking in France, Cycling in France, cycling in the Luberon | Leave a comment

Where to Stay When Cycling in France

Posted on January 29, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

I spend a lot of time researching where to stay on my bicycling trips. In response to a number of e-mails that I received on my Top Places to Stay for 2012 posts, I thought I would share a bit of how I go about making my selections.

I spend more time researching places to stay and eat than almost any other part of planning for my bike trips. As I’ve said many times, nothing can save a terrible day of bicycling than ending the day at a wonderful place to stay. Likewise, nothing can ruin a perfect bicycling day more than a mediocre place to stay. A good meal and a great night’s sleep are essential to keeping me happy when I am bicycling. So I devote the time, in advance to try to make the best selections that I can.

How do I go about doing this? When I am narrowing down the possibilities for an upcoming trip, I start taking a look at lodging alternatives in major towns along the route. A quick look at a couple of resources like the Michelin Red Guide France, and the local tourism website will confirm the general availability and price range of places to stay in the area. This information helps me make my final selection for an upcoming trip. This is a process that I have now begun for my 2013 trips. Once I make a final decision on an itinerary, I start researching specific towns and specific choices along the route.

Much to the dismay of my family, I have been known to add an extra 10-15 km onto a normal day’s itinerary so that we could stay at a special place that I found along the route! Fortunately these choices were always as wonderful as I had hoped they would be, so the extra effort required to get there was always worth it. I want my lodging choices to enhance my overall experience of traveling through France by bike, a window into a better understanding of life in France. And so I search for special places where at the end of the day I will get a warm and welcoming greeting at check-in, help carrying my panniers up the stairs, fluffy pillows, a glass of wine, these are all signs that I have made the right decision.

I estimate that I use 10-15 sources for every lodging selection that I make. As mentioned, I always look at the basics like Michelin, TripAdvisor, Logis Hotels, Gites de France, Karen Brown, the French National Tourism Office and CleaVacances. But I also look at accommodations listings for local tourism offices which often include small options that never make it into larger directories. Other resources that I use include local French cycling organizations, French regional travel blogs and small regional wine websites. I often find my best selections from some of these offbeat sources.

During my search, my objective is simple: to find the nicest place to stay for the least amount of money. Generally I try to avoid staying in large towns, preferring a much nicer small hotel or B&B in a small village for a fraction of the cost. This frees up money for me to splurge a bit on a great dinner and bottle of wine. It also means that at the end of the day when I am tired, I don’t need to navigate my way into a larger town. In the morning, well-rested, I’ll do my sightseeing, buy picnic supplies, maybe find a market if I’m lucky, and enjoy a second cup of coffee in town before I hit the road for the day.

Choosing where to stay can be a daunting task for anyone planning a bicycling trip to France. As a matter of fact, this is one reason people often choose to take self-guided trips, because all of the lodging choices are made for you. I’m a bit more adventurous and independent, and I love discovering little known places to stay that make my trips so memorable.

I love sharing my discoveries and I always write about my selections online before each bicycling trip. Suggestions on where to stay will also be included in my e-guide series, the first of which will come out in March. My selections are always noted for the special features and characteristics that made them appeal to me. My choices may not be the fanciest or the most luxurious, and they will probably not be the highest rated in the area, unless I have gotten an incredibly great deal. But my choices will always be characterized by three words: comfort, charm and value. I am always on the lookout for new places to stay, so if you come upon a great selection on your bicycling adventures, I hope that you will send in a note and share it with all of us too!

Posted in Planning a bicycling trip to France, Where to Stay | Tagged bicycling in France, bike in France, biking in France, Cycling in France, Logis Hotels, where to stay in France | Leave a comment

More France Bike Trip Planning Resources

Posted on January 21, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

Based on the e-mails received in the last week, it looks like the first list of travel resources was a hit, so here’s a few more for those traveling to other areas of France. Several of the new resources are for regions that I’ve not written much about before, so I hope they will encourage thoughts about travel to new areas!

Department of Tourism of Vaucluse

If you are planning to travel to the South of France, this is one of the first places you should visit, as the website is packed full of information on the region in general as well as cycling in the area. The Department of Vaucluse is Provence at its best: cities like Avignon, Orange and Vaison la Romaine, towns like Cavaillon, Apt, Gordes and Menerbes, villages like Lacoste and Chateauneuf du Pape.

Sunflowers as far as you can see

In the summer time, lavender and sunflower fields stretch as far as you can see, Cotes du Rhone wines and local markets burst with the best offerings of the season. And this is the website for pretty much anything you need to know to plan a trip to the region.

This is the land of the Tour de France, and the region understands the importance of cyclotourism to the area. Perhaps that’s why there is a dedicated cycling section on this website. Traditionally this region has been a major attraction to experienced cyclists, ones who ride $3,000 racing bikes who want to follow the route of the Tour. But believe it or not, this region has become a ctcling paradise for families and recreational cyclists. Well-marked trails, Roman ruins, picturesque hilltop villages, vineyards dotting the hillsides, charming places to stay are just a few of the reasons to take a close look at the cycling in the Luberon and Mount Ventoux area.

The Cycling in Vaucluse section of this website is a great resource to explore different itineraries. Whether you are a beginner, intermediate or experienced cyclist, there is a wide variety of possible itineraries searchable at each level. Itineraries can also be accessed by location: Luberon, Mont Ventoux, Upper Vauclude, and the Sorgues and Chateauneuf du Pape areas.

Each route description has detailed information, a link to a map, uploadable brochures and a GPS file. There is also a function to be able to pinpoint lodging and bike support services on each itinerary map. There is also a link to brochures and topographical maps.

Perhaps the best news of all to many of us who might contemplate a cycling vacation to this region where some of the best attractions always seem to be located at the top of hills is that electric bike rentals have become very popular. Velo Relax du Ventoux rents a bike with a small engine located on the front wheel and a battery on the luggage rack. So if you are interested in cycling in this region, don’t let the thought of hills deter you! Bike rental companies in the region also offer baggage transfer services and delivery/drop off services, enabling cyclists to pick up and drop off their rental bikes at different locations. For those of us who are averse to killer hills, there are also services that will shuttle you to the top of Mont Ventoux so that you can enjoy the view, and a leisurely ride down!

Velo Loisir du Luberon

I love this website! If you are planning to visit Avignon or Aix-en-Provence or anywhere in Provence and you are considering adding a day or a weekend of cycling, be sure to take a look at the Velo Loisir du Luberon website. It is full of information and resources on cycling in the Luberon Regional Natural Park, including rides through/near some of the loveliest towns and villages in the South of France including Apt, Lacoste, Menerbes, Bonnieux and Cavaillon, just to name a few.

This website is unique as it is operated by a network of more than 100 small businesses and professionals from the region dedicated to growing cycling. Since 1996, accommodations, rentals, taxis, restaurants, cultural sites, wineries, guides and travel agents have offered their services to make a cycling trip to Provence easier. The network has sign-posted itineraries on quiet little roads which have been developed in the Luberon Natural Regional Park and the Pays de Forcalquier – Montagne de Lure–including routes for experienced cyclists to weekend recreational cyclists and everything in between. I am amazed at the scope of information offered by this network which is really invested in developing cyclotourism in this part of Provence.

There are four main signposted routes including the 236 km Tour of Luberon and the 30 km greenway of Calavon, which will eventually be expanded to Avignon in the west and the Var region in the east. Routes are sign posted in each direction with a different color used for each direction, making it almost impossible to go the wrong way. Each village on the route has a Relais Information Service board that shows cyclists where they are on the route, services available in the town and attractions in the area. This is a service that tourism offices on other major routes should follow!

For experienced, hard-core cyclists, who want to test their mettle in this region of the Tour de France, there is the Lure Cycling Challenge, a timed ascent of the Montagne de Lure, a symbolic mountain in Haute-Provence. Starting at 722 m in Saint-Etienne les Orgues, cyclists ride the 18 km route to the top with an average gradient of 5.8% and a final elevation of 1736 m. Depending on the completion time, cyclists are awarded a gold, silver or bronze diploma and are included in the online rankings. Participation in the challenge is open to everyone. All that is required is to download the app to your iPhone. Applications and additional information is available at the Lure Cycling Challenge website. If you don’t have an iPhone, you can rent one for 8 Euro. While no Tour de France, the Lure Cycling Challenge is a fun way to test your physical stamina, your cycling prowess and come home hopefully with some bragging rights for completing the challenge!

The Velo Loirsir en Luberon network provides one-stop shopping for cyclists: from bike rentals to accommodation services, bag transfers, maps, brochures, route information, secure car parking and some of the most affordable self-guided trips you will ever find, this website makes planning a visit to the region a snap. Under the Itineraries heading you can access information on accommodations, restaurants, bike rental, attractions and wine cellars and elevation maps. There is an interactive map under Maps and Itineraries which can be very useful for planning purposes but at the current time it is only available in French. Individual route maps and itineraries can also be located in this section and most of the brochures are offered in English.Under the Breaks and Stays section you will find a wide variety of self-guided tour options including some of the most affordable trips that I have ever seen! A 4 day, 3 night self-guided tour including breakfast, lunch and dinner, bike rental, luggage transfer and accommodations runs 260 Euro per person per day. A 2 night trip at a member B&B, bike rental and breakfast runs 100 Euro per person. The options offered by this network are so affordable that I’ll definitely try to include one of their weekend tours in one of my trips this year!

Vins de Loire

If you are planning a trip along the Loire a Velo, this website is the perfect place to learn about Loire Valley wines. This area is the third most important wine growing region in France and is the longest wine road at 800 km.

The website is full of information on everything you want to know about Loire wines before you visit, from understanding the variety of grapes and the history of Loire wines to information on tasting and buying Loire wines.

Under the Discover the Loire Valley section, you can learn about the history of wine in the region going back to the introduction of grapes by the Romans 2,000 years ago. You can also get a full listing of cellars to visit and suggested itineraries. One thing to be sure not to miss is the link to download the 80+ page Loire Valley Vineyard Guide. As you work your way through the website, there is a function to add vineyards and different itineraries to a personal cellar notebook which is stored on the website. In Take a Break, you can click on a section of the map and get suggested walking and bicycling itineraries. Most rides are 1-3 hours long and all are rated according to their level of difficulty–very easy, easy and difficult.

Vineyards are everywhere, just follow the signs!

A trip to this region is not complete without enjoying visits to some of the outstanding vineyards and wine cellars along the way. For me, tasting at local cellars is such a fun adventure that there are days where I spend as much time visiting vineyards as I do cycling! To really enjoy your visit to cellars and vineyards, it helps to understand a bit about the region and its wines, so be sure to spend some time exploring this website before your trip.

Vins de Loire features information on 300 wine cellars that are committed to welcoming visitors to their estates to learn about winemaking as well as to sample and purchase wines. Most will display this symbol, a sign that the vineyard has signed the hospitality charter. You will always be welcome at vineyards that display this sign.

The Loire Hospitality Sign

Don’t miss the How to Taste Wine section. A review of this together with the sections on the history of Loire wines and you will be ready for your wine tasting adventures in the Loire. Have fun choosing the perfect bottle of wine for your picnic lunch and/or for a before dinner treat!

The perfect Loire wine for a picnic lunch

Canal du Nivernais

This terrific itinerary from Auxerre to Decize is part of the Tour of Burgundy, and until recently, detailed information on the route in English has been limited. Fortunately Canal du Nivernais now fills this need, offering interested cyclists great trip planning resources. This 175 km route is located under 2 hours from Paris by train, making this cycling itinerary a perfect add-on to a vacation in Paris.

The 175 km canal was built in the 18th century to transport firewood from the Morvan forest to Paris and fell into disrepair in 19th century when rail became cheaper and faster. Cruise boats are the only traffic on the canal now. The current cycle path along the canal opened in 2009 and since that time, it has been a very popular cycling route for those preferring it to better known and busier cycle routes like the Loire a Velo. With 116 locks along the route, and the famous Sardy ladder with its 16 lock staircase attracts visitors from around the world. Quaint villages, chateaux, lakes, cliffs and vineyards, this route has it all, and the Canal du Nivernais website can help you plan what part of the route you’d like to visit.

One great feature is the create your itinerary function. You choose the starting point and destination. You can now access a great directory of places to stay, searchable by type, comfort level, brand and location. You can also access attractions and things to do along your chosen location. There is detailed information on towns along the route and famous vineyards along the way under the “Discover” section on the navigation bar.

Under Practical Information you can access the 80 page Tourist Guide to the Canal du Nivernais with sections in English, German and French. There is also a new Michelin Map, Canal du Nivernais by Bike that is available for 9.9 Euro, probably something that you could pick up along the route. In addition to basic route information, the Michelin map has a number of deviations to attractions along the route.

I hope these resources give you some more ideas about routes to consider for upcoming bike trips. Let me know if you have any favorite resources that might help me decide where to go in 2013! Happy planning.

Posted in Bicycling in France, Bicycling in Provence, Cycling through Burgundy, Cycling Through French Vineyards, Planning a bicycling trip to France, Where to Stay | Tagged bicycling in France, bicycling in Provence, bike in France, biking in France, canal, cycling, Cycling in Burgundy, Cycling in France, Cycling in Provence, cycling in the Luberon, cyclists, Fortunately Canal, France, GPS, Haute Provence, Loire, Loire a Velo, Loire Valley, Lure Cycling Challenge, Michelin Map, Mont Ventoux, Paris, picnic lunch, Planning a bike trip to Provence, Upper Vauclude, Velo Loisir, Velo Relax, vineyards, wine | Leave a comment

Great Resources To Help Plan Your Bike Trip to France

Posted on January 10, 2013 by Experience France by Bike

By Maggie LaCoste

Cyclotourism is getting to be big business in Europe, worth somewhere around 45+ billion Euros per year to the European economy. This is great for you and me because countries like France, (and Germany, Austria and Switzerland) want our business. Their improving their marketing efforts and they are rapidly stepping up efforts to provide better information on major routes. Don’t get too excited, this doesn’t mean that you will have an easy time finding information on all major itineraries. But it does mean that access to better information is improving, more of it’s offered in English, and the result is easier trip planning. To kick off the new year and bike trip planning season, let’s take a look at several major websites to see how they can help you decide where to go and where to bike.

Loire a Velo

In my mind, this is the bicycle touring website that has set the standard for all others in France. Full of information and easy to use, this should be the first stop for anyone considering a bicycling vacation in France. Loire a Velo helps you understand the history of the Loire, what you can expect to see along the way, and also provides information on where to stay, where to rent bikes and a lot of other trip planning information. The website is available in French, English and German.

Chateau Usse

One new function of the website that can be useful is the ability to create a personalized map and list of attractions that you would like to see. To access this function, click on “Tailor Made Holidays” on the right hand side of the home page. This will provide instructions on how to get started and how to save and retrieve your map.

New for 2013 is a new Loire a Velo mobile app that facilitates quick and easy access to 11 different categories of information including attractions, bike repair locations, the Loire a Velo map, where to stay and where to eat. The accommodations function will let you search by type of establishment–hotel, B&B, gite, campsite, by rating, by price or by location.

Whether you are interested in planning a long excursion along the Loire, or a weekend or day biking adventure, this website can help you narrow down your choices, and decide what to see along the way. Sites like La Loire a Velo make planning a trip as much fun as taking the trip….well almost!

Eurovelo 6

Another great resource for bike planning along the Loire is the EuroVelo 6 website which traces the bicycling itinerary from the Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea. Often called the great rivers route, this itinerary is one of the most popular in Europe, enabling cyclists to follow history along the Loire, the Rhine and the Danube. Along with the Loire a Velo website, it is one of my favorites, both in the amount of information available, and its ease of use. This website is available in French, English and German.

Bicycling along EuroVelo 6

You can access information on the route either by river or by specific stages of the 4,000 km route. My favorite way to explore is by stage, since I like to explore the several stages that I have yet to complete. Each stage includes a thorough description of the overall stage, and then detailed information on each segment within the stage. Users have access to information on accommodations, bike support services and attractions within each stage.

La Velodyssee

While there were some glitches in the first months after the official debut of La Velodyssee last summer, all seems to be back on track with this popular itinerary. The website may look familiar as it uses the same format as Loire a Velo, and luckily it offers most of the same functionality with a few extras.

According to the website, the entire French Velodyssey is now signposted between Roscoff and Hendaye with the logo on directional panels throughout the route, although how these look may vary according to the region you are in.

If you plan to do any part of this itinerary in 2013, please be sure and send me information regarding how easy it is to follow the route with the new signage. This will be of great benefit to others planning to take this route!

There are two functions on this website that I love. The first is the “Find My Cycling Route” function located on the top right hand page. You can specify the region–Brittany, Loire, Poitou Charentes, Aquitaine or Devon England that you want to visit, the level of cyclist you are and the type of theme you are interested in, and it will bring up a list of itineraries that meet those criteria.

The second function that I like is the interactive map where you can click on a particular section and you get in depth information on that stage. You can also access accommodations information by type, bike repair locations, tourism offices, places to eat, picnic areas, farmers markets and local attractions.

This map also contains the most up to date information on the route in that particular area. Greenways or car-free paths are marked in green, temporary routes in red, shared routes in yellow and alternative routes, normally deviations to attractions in purple.

This is a great feature that is very easy to use and it’s certainly worth taking a look at!

Aquitaine Regional Tourism Office

When you are planning a vacation, it’s true, a picture can be worth a thousand words! That’s the reason why I love this new web design from the Regional Tourism Office of Aquitaine. Visitors are invited to visit one of 10 Aquitaine destinations, almost all of which are very popular bicycling destinations. If you are torn between bicycling the Bordeaux and Saint Emilion vineyards and the Bay of Arcachon, this resource could help you make the decision.

Saint Emilion

Interested in Saint Emilion? Click on Vines and Vineyards, and you are taken to a page with a gorgeous view of Saint Emilion, and a description of the area. From this page, you can access hypertext linked information on attractions in the area, a beautiful selection of photos and videos, and a new area, mobile support. Not surprisingly, only a few of the 10 destinations currently have mobile support in English, but the others won’t be far behind. Vines and Vineyards is available for iPhone and Android, Vezere Valley is available for iPhone and the Lot-et-Garonne is available in both Android and iPhone versions. I haven’t gone to the iTunes store yet to try to download these mobile apps, so I will let you know when I do. I will also let you know as more of the Aquitaine destinations release mobile apps in English.

Vendee Velo

This is the new website for bicycling in the Vendee, now with over 1,000 km of bicycling trails, one of the largest in France! This website is very helpful for trip planning because there has not been a lot of information available on biking in this area. Unfortunately this website is currently only in French, but it is so rich with information that it is more than worth the trouble to link it to Google Translate! The geographical diversity of this area is amazing from the coastal trails along the Vendee Coast, to the marshes of the Marais Poitevin to woods and green countryside of the Haut Bocage. There is something here for everyone.

An interactive map on the main page illustrates each of six major itineraries. Click on one of the itineraries and you are able to access maps and other detailed information about the specific itinerary and attractions. All of the Vendee itineraries also have mobile apps, but at the current time they are only available in French. Click here to link to the cycling section on the Vendee Tourism website. Among other things, you will find a great downloadable map on cycling in the Vendee, note that it is also in French, but nonetheless, a great resource. I hope that one of these resources may be of some help to you as you consider routes to explore in 2013. Stay tuned for more top resources in the upcoming weeks!

Posted in Bicycling La Velodyssee, Bicycling the Burgundy Canal, Bicycling the Canal du Midi, Bicycling the Loire River Valley, Planning a bicycling trip to France, Where to Bike | Tagged Atlantic Coast, Austria, Bicycling in Brittany, bicycling in France, bike in France, biking, biking in France, Biking the loire, cycling, Cycling in France, cycling the Loire, Cycling through Burgundy, England, Europe, EuroVelo, France, French Velodyssey, Google Translate, Haut Bocage, La, La Velodyssee, Loire, Loire a Velo, Marais Poitevin, Poitou Charentes, Saint Emilion, Switzerland, Tourism Office, Veloroutes, Vendee Coast, Vendee Tourism, Vendee Velo | 6 Comments

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